Fall is Here, Winter Is Approaching
As fall and winter approach, I want to take this time to help you all dial in your gear and mindset. But first, let’s make sure you understand the significant changes from summer to winter.
The most obvious change is that the weather gets cooler and the water temperature drops substantially. Here in Southern California, summer water temps typically range between 66 and 72°F. Even a two or three-degree change can feel noticeable when you’re surfing regularly. As we move into fall and winter, water temperatures drop to around 60 to 64°F in the fall and can dip as low as 55°F, sometimes even 53°F in mid-winter, especially during upwellings or after strong north winds.
Beyond temperature, something I realized this summer is that not everyone fully understands how swells change seasonally and what that means for surf conditions.
Summer is dominated by south and southwest swells that are generated by storms in the South Pacific. These swells tend to be longer-period groundswells that arrive with a smoother, more playful energy. In contrast, winter brings north and northwest swells from stronger storms in the North Pacific. These systems produce more powerful and consistent waves with higher energy.
Surfline notes that winter swells are typically longer in duration and more consistent, often lasting a week or more, while summer hurricane or tropical swells are shorter-lived and can peak for just a day or two. In winter, a swell can pulse multiple times throughout the day, meaning conditions can shift quickly from comfortable to challenging within a single session.
Now let’s talk about some gear that can make your winter surf experience just as enjoyable and impactful as when the weather and water are warmer.
Wetsuits
Make sure you have a properly fitted suit that is thick enough to keep you warm. I recommend a 4/3. I’ve surfed full winters in a premium 3/2, but most people prefer the extra warmth of a 4/3.
A good wetsuit should feel snug but not restrictive. Maybe you got away with a loose fitting spring suit or top this summer but not in winter. Try it on before you buy, and make sure the seams are sealed or taped to minimize flushing. Investing in a high-quality wetsuit makes a big difference in both warmth and durability.
Click here for my favorite (Matuse) wetsuits
Booties
Booties are a game changer once the water temperature drops below the low 60s. They not only keep your feet warm but also improve your comfort when surfing over rocky entries, reef, or cobblestone breaks.
I recommend 3mm or 5mm booties depending on your tolerance for cold and where you surf. Make sure they fit securely so water doesn’t flush in and out. If you’ve never worn them before, it might take a few sessions to get used to the feel
Hoods
Hoods are often seen in colder climates, but lately, I’ve noticed more surfers wearing them in Southern California. Some might find it unnecessary, but I personally prefer to stay as warm as possible. You can get a 4/3 wetsuit with an attached hood, or my personal choice is the Patagonia vest with a hood. I like layering it under my wetsuit because the vest adds about half a millimeter of extra warmth to the core and gives me the option to pull the hood up when I need it.
Another benefit of using a hood is that it helps reduce the risk of surfer’s ear, which is a condition where bone growth occurs in the ear canal due to cold wind and water exposure. I’ll write a more in-depth blog on this in the future, but for now, another great preventative measure is wearing earplugs.
Click here for Patagonia vest/hood
Gloves
Are gloves necessary? It really depends on personal preference. Some of these accessories might seem excessive for Southern California surfers, and anyone surfing in snowy conditions might laugh at us for even considering them, but comfort is key. Do what makes you most comfortable and keeps you out there longer.
Remember that as your core body temperature drops, you become stiffer, and surfing isn’t as fun when you’re shivering.
After Your Session
Once you’re out of the water, warming up quickly makes all the difference. I recommend bringing a jug of hot water to pour into your wetsuit before taking it off. It feels incredible. When I first started surfing, older surfers would repurpose thick detergent bottles because they retained heat well. These days, you can buy insulated jugs or even small portable shower setups. Depending on your budget, there are plenty of options, but this is a must in my opinion.
When you’re changing, a poncho is an easy way to stay warm and avoid awkward towel situations. But if you really want comfort, consider upgrading to a Dryrobe or a similar changing parka. It’s like a warm cocoon of fleece, roomy enough to change inside while staying shielded from the wind and rain. The outer shell is both wind and water resistant, making it perfect for early mornings and stormy sessions.
